I might love Pilsen more than I love my boyfriend*.

While I should preface this by saying that I fall in love easily, falling head over heels in love with Pilsen, even by my standards, was quick.

I have been spending several weeks in Pilsen now as it is the neighbourhood I chose to report in for Medill. Even after spending the majority of my days there, I am still blown away by the neighbourhood, its residents and everything Pilsen has to offer.

Taking several steps off of the El and onto the 18^th Street Pink Line platform I am constantly impressed by the artwork and murals present in the station. Reproductions of José Posada’s La Calavera de la Catrina (http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Catrina), images of Mother Mary, colourful paintings of the Mexican flag and other murals reflect the rich Mexican-American culture in which Pilsen residents take pride.

While walking through Pilsen, you would never notice that the Mexican population has been on the decline since 2000 due to gentrification. Artwork and murals aside, shops like Paco’s Record Shop and Discoteca Mexico Oro blast Hispanic and Latino music, tempting me to start an impromptu dance party on the sidewalk, and many restaurants like Playa Azul on 18^th frequently feature middle-aged Hispanic men belting out traditional Mexican tunes.

Shops and restaurants are painted with colours one would not expect to encounter in a South Side neighbourhood, nearly every sign is written in both Spanish and English, and the neighbourhood is a charming getaway from the rush of the city.

Click onward to read more! :o)

The Jumping Bean Cafe on 18th Street in Pilsen

You will not find a Starbucks in Pilsen, but after being in Cafe Jumping Bean for five minutes, you won’t care.

Freddy, a manager at CJB serves up simple sandwiches and sides to customers while Maya, one of the baristas, will happily make you a cup of whatever it is you drink.

For something different, and for someone with only a very sweet tooth, try the Iced Velvet, a hazlenut-chocolate milk drink that is served in a massive glass over ice. If you are still craving sugar, have a slice of the carrot cake. The yellow cake is studded with raisins, carrot chunks and pecans, and though it surprisingly resembles a dense English fruitcake in taste, the creamy, lighter-than-air cream cheese frosting balances the consistency and makes the whole thing pretty orgasmic.

I would advise anyone to steer clear of the chai tea because it is made from a liquid mix and tastes pretty weak. The coffee beans are ground in-house, and the regulars are super-friendly: I have not once sat in CJB without making a new friend.

CJB is always jam-packed, has free internet and is super laid-back.

Another great place to go for a caffeine fix is Cafe Mestizo on 18th Street. This quirky little coffee shop is known for displaying local art and for hosting local poets and musicians to spice up the atmosphere. If you are so inclined (I am yet to partake!), you can show off your own talent at open-mic nights on Wednesdays! And if jazz music is more of your thing, pop in on Sundays from 6-9 p.m. and listen to new artists groove their way through a jam session.

Might I also add that Cafe Mestizo has amazing food?! They have put a great spin on some Mexican dishes and serve corn-on-the-cob, quesadillas and tamales that are served in a banana leaf (my favourite!)! Delish!!!

If you are craving baked goods (a.k.a. freshy freshies), then make your way to Nuevo Leon Panaderia on 18th Street, where you are sure to find the most delectable breads, pastries and Mexican-style tasties. Once you enter the shop, head toward the back of the store. There, freshly baked goodies that have just been taken out of the oven are left on racks to cool.

Make sure to look for the fresh pineapple-upside-down cakes with a gorgeously caramelised crust, tender cakey interior and a sweet, browned pineapple top studded with a maraschino cherry. Other highlights in the bakery are the custard-stuffed doughnuts; tender and mildly sweet coffee cake and the slightly-more-expensive-but-definitely-worth-it tres leches cake slices that are stored in the refrigerator.

I guess I should be fair and tell you all that I have not, by any means, tried all of the amazing little restaurants in Pilsen, but I have been to several that are worth your while!

A view of La Cebollita (far left) on 1807 S. Ashland!

La Cebollita is my little gem. Located on S. Ashland off of 18th Street, this fairly new restaurant has a great view of the two busiest streets in Pilsen, so it is worth grabbing that window table! For how cheap the menu is, you will be tempted to go crazy (like Ileana and I did!) and get everything. DO IT! Bring your friends and get a little sumthin’ sumthin’ from every part of that menu! (You can see the full menu right here!)

Notice when you first sit down, the chips and salsa the server brings. The chips are dusted with a tangy spice that make them stand out from the usual plain white corn tortilla chips you get at the McMexican joint. Both the green and red sauces are delicious, though I prefer the smoky, chunky red sauce that, for the life of me, I cannot remember its proper name!

The chorizo (Mexican sausage) tacos are moist and spicy, paired with just enough raw onion and cilantro to make them taste slightly citrus-y-sweet and gorgeously complex, white the carne asada burrito was packed with flavourful grilled steak, lettuce, cheese and sour cream. And honey, you can never go wrong with smothering every bite with that heavenly red sauce! Mmmmm!

Lime-flavoured Jarritos are my drinks of choice, but if you are in the mood for a punch of Vitamin C, order the freshly squeezed orange juice. Sure, it takes a little longer to hit the table, but its rich taste and ability to fill you up will put even the biggest pint of Guinness to shame!

Oh, you better believe there is more to come about Pilsen…just watch for more posts! ;o)

*This title was meant to catch your eye! I really love my boyfriend more! :o)

Dev x